1. Introduction
PART I: SKIN TYPES
2. Biophysical Characteristics of the Skin in Relation to Race, Sex, Age, and Site
3.Functional Map and Age-Related Differences in the Human Face:
Nonimmunologic Contact Urticaria Induced by Hexyl Nicotinate
4. The Baumann Skin-Type Indicator: A Novel Approach to Understanding Skin Type
5.Ethnic Differences in Skin Properties: The Objective Data
6.Sensitive Skin: Sensory, Clinical, and Physiological Factors
7.Neurophysiology of Self-Perceived Sensitive-Skin Subjects by Functional Magnetic Resonance Imaging
8.Tests for Sensitive Skin
PART II: SKIN HYDRATION
PART III: SKIN BARRIER AND pH
15. The Correlation Between Transepidermal Water Loss and Percutaneous Absorption: An Overview
16. Role of Calcium in the Regulation of Skin Barrier Homeostasis
17. Percutaneous Penetration Enhancers: An Overview
18. Tests for Skin Protection: Barrier Effect
19. Electron Paramagnetic Resonance Studies of Skin Lipid Structure
20. Human Skin Buffering Capacity: An Overview
21. Skin pH and Skin Flora
PART IV: SKIN AGING AND SUN CARE PRODUCTS
22. Skin Ageprint: The Causative Factors
23. A Quantitative Approach to Age and Skin Structure and Function: Protein, Glycosaminoglycan, Water, and Lipid Content and Structure
24. Glycation End Products
25. Spectrophotometric Intracutaneous Analysis (SIAscopy)
26. The Visioscan-Driven ULEV and SELS Methods
27. New Trends in Antiaging Cosmetic Ingredients and Treatments: An Overview
28. Antioxidants
29. UV Filters
30.Sun Protection and Sunscreens
31. After-Sun Products
32. Skin Care Products: Artificial Tanning
33. Reconstructed Human Skin and Skin Organ Culture Models Used in Cosmetic Efficacy Testing
PART V: SKIN PERCEPTION
PART VI: SKIN TOLERANCE
PART VII: TARGETED COSMETICS
PART VIII: COSMETICS VEHICLE
1. Introduction
p 18 จุดประสงค์ – beautifying , perfuming , cleansing , rituals
ก่อน 1938 ไม่มี regulated as drug
Federal Food , Drug, Cosmetic Act
จาก industrialization – new gredients จากหลายๆ industries – oleo-, petrochemical , food
US law require ingredient classification and product labeling since 1966
Europe council directive 76/768/EEC 27july 1976- cosmetic directive
1991 cosmetic direcive , prohibited marketing of cosmetic products , tested on animal 1998
7th amendment european cosmetic directive 2003
cosmetic – ไม่เพียงแค่ improve appearance , odor, แต่ยัง benefit target, – skin , hair, nail , mucous memb , tooth
product become – diversified, multitude of biologic action
มุ่งเน้น – hydrating skin , reduce or slow sign of aged skin ,
protecting skin barrier and skin entity against multitude daily env aggression
raw material – more efficacious , safe , bioavailable
– ไม่เพียงแค่ natural sources แต่ยังต้อง highly purified
– ต้อง specifically synthesized / product จาก genetically manipulate microorganism
cosmetic vehicle – มีผลสำคัญกับ effect
p 19 , target to deliver – promised benefit
2. Biophysical Characteristics of the Skin in Relation to Race, Sex, Age, and Site
3.Functional Map and Age-Related Differences in the Human Face:
Nonimmunologic Contact Urticaria Induced by Hexyl Nicotinate
4. The Baumann Skin-Type Indicator: A Novel Approach to Understanding Skin Type
5.Ethnic Differences in Skin Properties: The Objective Data
6.Sensitive Skin: Sensory, Clinical, and Physiological Factors